Travelogue – Zürich

It must be about 20 years since I was last in Zürich, and I only know that because I had never done a Travelogue previously. Before then when I worked in London I was a frequent visitor.

I had forgotten how beautiful this city is, sat on two rivers and a lake with the Alps looming large in the background.

Beyond the historic city with its medieval church spires pointing heavenward and clean cobblestone streets is a modern urban sprawl that locks itself to the shores of the lake and the foothills of the mountains.

I was in Zürich for work, or at least with a client who likes the better things in life and it was her idea to sandwich a weekend in the Swiss capital between meetings in London and Munich.

Actually if you call a three hour boat cruise up Lake Zürich followed by dinner at the medieval old town of Rapperswil at the end of the banana-shaped lake on Friday, then we can possibly call it ‘work.’

Rapperswil known for its rose gardens and castle is the last of a 25-mile stretch along Lake Zürich of unbelievably stunning towns, each one we declared as we passed as the dream place to live. Until we came to the next one.

We were told that there is fair bit of rivalry between the two coasts of the lake – the sun-kissed Goldküste (Gold Coast) and the less sunny, and amusingly nicknamed, Pfnüselküste (Sniffle Coast). I’d be happy to live on either.

Unsurprisingly a lake house does not come cheap, they don’t even come remotely expensive. Zürich is the most expensive place to live in a country that has a notoriously high cost of living. Clean air, an idyllic lifestyle, political and economic stability and excellent healthcare will do that.

Zürich is a not a place to hurtle around. Zürcher or Zürcherin’s live at a steady unrushed pace, and understandably as makers of the best watches in the world, like to take their time.

Last weekend there was a big international cycling race. Spandex clad cyclists speeding through the city while all around locals sat sipping coffee and eating cheese sandwiches with not a care in the world.

There’s a lot to be said for that. The world and it’s troubles bypassing this neutral land that has just about everything you could possibly have on your adventure list.

The nearest ski resort’s are about an hour away, and you could get to the summit of Davos and back for a veal dinner before dark. Only a pair of comfortable shoes is needed to walk Zürich’s charming streets that reward you by unfolding quietly around each corner.

Zürich’s Old Town (Altstadt) is the medieval part of town. Quintessential Zurich attractions can be found here like Grossmunster church. It will cost you CHF 5 to climb the cathedral’s 187 steps for unmatched views of the city.

Also in the Old Town is the Swiss National Museum occupying a castle-like building and the city’s art museum Kunsthaus Zürich.

Of course the main attraction to Zürich is it’s beautiful glass-like lake, fed by melted glacier water. One of Switzerland’s many lakes the west end attaches itself to the city and it is easily accessible by a year-round regular boat service plus if you can get on one, two historic paddle-steamers.

It’s also not unusual to see people swimming in the lake, as well as on all modes of transport including a simple rubber-ring.

The Limmat River extends from the lake and winds itself through Zürich with historic guild houses and tiny little coffee shops nestled together on its banks. The Lindenhof also stands tall overlooking the river. A haven of peace and tranquility this spot provides tremendous views over some of Zürich’s most beautiful locations.

If fairytale churches are your thing, then there is no better spot to gawp at or go inside, especially to the now open to the public crypt at Fraumünster. Founded by Louis the German in 853. Zurich’s skyline is dotted with church spires, however none are as remarkable as the slender blue spire of the Fraumünster.

I didn’t get time to do this but the Adliswil-Felsenegg cable car would be a great way to see the city. The two cars shuttle between upper and lower stations and each way takes about six minutes. Perhaps I could have squeezed that in!

FIFA is headquartered in Zürich and is outside of town, but easier to reach is the FIFA Museum. It opened in 2016 and is said to have over 1.000 pieces of football memorabilia inside it. Not Sepp Blatter though as he died the year before it opened.

I was taken aback by the quite grandiose shopping scene. Hip boutiques, quirky vintage stores, beautiful chocolate shops and classy department stores lined Bahnhofstrasse.

My hotel was perfectly positioned, but would be labelled boutique and minimalist, so lacked certain touches but they did serve a wonderful breakfast. The grander Storchen looked like it brought more trappings and did have a smashing roof top bar with incredible 360° views.

Breakfast was my favourite meal as it delivers food I could pick at all day – bircher müesli, yoghurts, breads, jams, cheeses, eggs, meats, olives and pickles. Dinner takes you into the realms of veal, raw beef, sausage, potatoes and everyone’s family favourite, fondue, and Feldschlösschen beer was a nice warm up for the stronger stuff to come in Munich.

It was a short but dazzling visit back to Zürich after far too long. I was in awe of the beauty and breathtaking vistas. Fairytale like building’s abound with the lake at its heart and the mountains on its horizon.